Thursday, September 01, 2005

Maximum City : Bombay Lost and Found



A brilliant book that will hit you with a force stronger than the hurricane katrina. Being a big fan of "Larry Collins & Dominique Lapierre" style of writing.I was impressed with this book. Like them suketu also does not narrate things baldly, he provides you with well researched information’s and engages you with stories of people from different walks of life. Some of the information are stunning, like the ones given below.

In 1950 villages contributed 71% of net domestic product, Today the cities account for 60%.Bombay alone pays 38% of the nations taxes.

The greater bombay's population currently, 19 million is bigger than 173 countries in the world. If it is a country by itself, in 2004 it will rank 55.

In 1999 belgium had a population density of 130 people per square mile, netherlands 150,india 120.It is the cities of india that are overpopulated. singapore had a density of 2,535 and berlin the most crowded european city has 1,130 people per sq mile.The island city of bombay is 1990 had a density of 17,550 people per sq mile.some parts of central bombay have a population density of 1 million people per sq mile.This is the highest number of individuals massed together at any spot in the world.


Big commerical cities like bombay have an energy in them, some unique characteristics and a magic which one of the characters in the book aptly puts by calling bombay a "Maya Nagari".To bring them out and to make everyone understand why it is so is not an easy job to do.sukethu has done it wonderfully.

The book is like a hindi masala movie.It has crime, sex, glamour, family sentiments and spirituality. The first half of the book engages you with researched information’s and data, his view points on various things and his experiences with the cops and the under world. The second part is relative slow as it takes you into the life of bar girls, bollywood stars, monks and peoples in the slum. But it never stops to surprise you. The book is just not about others life, suketu narrates his own memories of bombay, and what it means to him. He also puts forth his empirical arguments and make us think.

Long before the millennium, Indians such as the late prime minister rajiv ghandhi, were talking about taking the country into the twenty-first century, as if the twentieth century could be leap frogged. India desires modernity; it desires computers , information technology, neural networks, video on demand. But there is no guarantee of a constant supply of electricity in most places in the country.IN this as in every other area, the country is convinced it can pole vault over the basics: develop world class computer and management institutes without achieving basic literacy, provide advanced cardiac surgery and diagnostic imaging facilities while the most easily avoidable childhood diseases run rampant, sell washing machines that depend on a non existent water supply ... drive scores of new cars that go from 0 to 60 in ten sec without any roads where they might do this without killing everything inside out, man and beast.




sukethu has to be commended for writing such a book. He has taken lot of risk in meeting the gangsters and going all he way to karachi to meet chotta shakeel.It was the time when the gang war was in full swing chotta rajan and the D company were fighting it out on the streets of bombai.He gives the account of a shooter, his meeting with him etc and end it by saying something like 2 days after the meeting he was shoot dead. so sukhetu during his interview and his meeting was also in the danger of getting involved in a shoot out.

All throughout the book, you can feel the thoughts of an NRI who loves his city and wants it to be like the other great cities of the developed nations. His passion for the city is evident in the wide spectrum of issues that he has covered.

He never misses a chance to point out the ironies of situations. This book is filled with ironies. There are too many to quote.

The country graduates the best technical brains in the world but neglects to teach my plumber how to fix a toilet so it stays fixed....So in the country of the NO, nothing is fixed the first time around. You dont just call a repairmen, you begin a relationship with him. You can't bring to his attention too aggressively the fact that he is incompetent or crooked, because you will need him to set right what he has broken the first time around.


And similarly he does not paint anyone in all black or all white. He gives all the views and sides of any personality he meets. And he has boldly put words that wont be liked by many celebrities it includes Bal thackarey to sanjay dutt.

My father once, in New york,exasperated by my relentless demands to be sent back to finish high school in bomay, shouted at me, "when you were there, you wanted to come here. Now that you're here, you want to go back". It was then I first realized, I had a new nationality: citizen of the country of longing.


One interesting personality that he talked about was this guy called eishaan. A textile shop manager in dubai who left everything to become a hero in bombay. sukethu meets him when he is still a struggling actor and writes about his experience. Eishaan gets a break to act in a movie called "Jai shakhumbhari Maa" and then he writes about his experiences in the movie. The name "jai shakhumbhari Maa" rang a bell to me.It is the same movie that i wrote about in my Aastha review.I was surprised to know about the character.Me and my roomie where making fun of this low low budget movie and my roomie told that this guy looks like a poor man's salman khan.I was sweetly surprised to know about eishaan from this book. But was not able to digest the fact that sukethu even after watching that movie in a special screening does not say anything bad about the movie.



I first started writing down some excerpts, after 50 pages i felt if have to write down all the information’s that awed me i have to pretty much write down the whole book. so i stopped noting down the info.THe once that are given here are the few that i noted at the start.

The total backlog of cases in indian courts at the close of twentieth century stood at 25 million.....At the current rate it will take 350 years to end the backlog.

You have to break the law to survive. I break the law often and casually. I dislike giving bribes, i dislike buying movie tickets in black. But since the legal option is ridiculously arduous - in getting a driver license, in buying a movie ticket I take the easy way out. If the whole country collectively takes an easy way out, an alternate economy is established who's rules are more are less known to all, whose rates are fixed. To survive in bombay you have to know its habit. If you have a child, you have to know how much donation to give to the school, to get admission. if you have a traffic accident you have to know how much to give to the cops to dispose of the matter....The parallel economy is fed on a diet of judicial rot. The system of justice, supreme legacy of the british, is in tatters, starved by a succession of governments afraid of its power over them. It was a judge in the allahabad high court who nullified indira gandhi's election victory in 1975; she promptly suspended the constitution.


It is a must read.Read it and bombay will not be the same for you.

Links

suketu's official website

suketu's interview in NPR

Comments:
Yes Sen ,I feel very sad for Mumbai ...I stayed there for 3 years while i was in India .I had the opportunity to stay with variety of people musicians ,peopel who visited prostitutes ( and got STD in the end ) ,ambitious people ,pan wallah friends etc ..Everybody gets from Mumbai but nobody gives back .....

My positive points abt mumbai is that peopel are very social ,have no ego in communicating ,work culture is better than chennai ..But Mumbai has lost its identity ,its local language is thrown to dust ( marati) ,too much hype ,glamour ,magazines with absolute crap ,peopel 's don't care attitude abt the slums ..In that way chennai is much better ..

The Book seems to be very intresting.His thoughts are wonderful ,along the lines of what Swami Vivekananda said abt India some 100 years ago .But yet again ,iam qually frustrated abt these authors ,who blame ,blame and blame India and don't recognise the improvements we have made despite the poepulation - There is no denying that there are lot of work to be done ,but just blaming India totally without contributing anything to its progress just irritates me .You go to live in India ,be the change .

How many positives has he mentioned about India ?Is it the case that we don't have any positives ?Of course this is abook on Mumbai ,so we can't expect that - but at the same time ,i don't expect his comments on infrastructure in India .We can't go by some reports in outlooks /Times of India /India Today :They are foten biased ,over done and don't give a complete picture .


For examples ,i have seen NRIs blaming on RTOs ,customs .For the record ,i do agree that there is some truth in what they say .But often they are in a situation like ' I want a liscense in 2 days ' , ' I am having a 1000$ cam corder and this needs to be brought in with out spending $$$ '

If the author has travelled extensively through India ,all villages ,compared how it was 10 years before now and now it will be better .

WOnder how he was able to meet Chota Shakeel - This is just too much,when all leading journalists in India are un able to meet him .
 
But since the legal option is ridiculously arduous - in getting a driver license, in buying a movie ticket I take the easy way out.

Seriana peela ..Naan 3 years Bombay la irunthu iruken ...I can't help but laugh at this fact !
 
senthil
unakku pudu peru vaikaren
pullivivaram paramasivam :)
eppadi
ore statsa allaivudaraappa.
Appala i have tried to do a quick tale.eppadi keethunnu koruluvudapa :)
 
Bombay is not a city. It is an ecosystem in itself. Ive read the book and Suketu comes out with some fascinating facets of the city. The feature on bar girls for instance is very interesting. The fact that the most famous bar girl in Bombay is actually a man was startling.

There is one paragraph that I love in the book - talks about how inspite of all those communal riots and intolerance when a man rushes to catch a moving local train in BOmbay , a hand will extend to pull him in and automatically space for 1 feet will be created. And at that time no one bothers if the man is a hindu, a muslim or a bhaiyya....or something to this effect. That one paragraph for me sums up the greatness of the city.
 
Bombay is not a city. It is an ecosystem in itself. Ive read the book and Suketu comes out with some of the fascinating facets of the city. The feauture on bar girls for instnce is very interesting. The fact that the most famous bar girl in Bombay is actually a man was startling.

There is one paragraph that I love in the book that talks about how inspite of all those communal riots,intolerance when a man rushes to catch a moving local train in BOmbay , a hand will extend to pull him in and automatically space for 1 feet will be created. And at that time no one bothers if the man is ahindu, a musilm or a bhaiyya....or something to this effect. That one paragraph for me sums up the gratness of the city.
 
pawan ,
ethu vechu onnum solla mudiyathu .....Train la makkal yeruvanga ,irukungu vanga ...thats not a deal ....

In Bombay there is a complete polarisation of religion .THere are places exclusive of muslims where not even one hINDU resides and vice versa .I have stayed in 4 different places ( except for coloba ,Malabar Hill ,worli and all high fundu places ) ,i haven't seen one muslim ,or one mosque in the vicinity !!

The muslim population is concentrated only in the following areas of Jogeswari ,chinchinpoli ,Byculla and few areas .Rest of the places U can see less than 2% of muslims !!!

Talk to the typical middle class Bombaites ,u can see the anger for muslims -I have seen friends from my own companies saying that - they have their own valid reasons for it ( One of them was a petrol Bomb maker in 1993 !!!!!) ..

All said and done Bombai is one unique city with different kinds of peopel living !!

Compared to that ,I feel TN has better religious harmony .In my Madurai ,rajaji Street in NBagamali Pudhukottai ,this was the combination of peopel living in that street

1. A n Iyer
2.Muslim
3.Kannada Rao
4.Devar
5.Kallar
6.Maravar
7.telugu Guy
8.Nadar
9.Christian
10.Iyengar
11.ST ( I guess )

Sometimes i marvel that the street represents INDIA as such !
 
Ramki,
The book is not a typical NRI's frustruation with the indian system.It is a well researched book.He has pointed a few positives.But +ives mentioned or not, the negatives still remain to be addressed and that is what we should be concerned about.

And it is not about whether the city is good or bad.It is about the soul of the city, the character of the city.He takes us into the lives of few individuals to show us how these small threads become the part of the bigger tapestry called bombay.

Dont miss this book.

Pawan,
I also liked the train example, but felt that it was kind of added to bring things to a close. u know something +ive to end the whole book.In the same book there are many places where the simearing tension between the hindus and muslims are mentioned and people openly telling that if there is another riot, the muslims will hit hard.
 
Sounds like interesting. Would try to find it.
 
havent read this one but since it deals with bombay, just thot i'd mention another book closely tied to the city - shantaram. i highly recomment that one.
 
jo, balaji,
please do. wonderful book.

balaji,
i heard about shantaram too.was it good??.do u have a review on it in ur blog??.
 
no, i read this book before i started my blog. here's my review on amazon.

Shantaram is an epic that reads like a thriller. Its the story of an Australian who lands in Bombay after escaping from prison and then gets pulled into a life of crime and drugs, while earning the love and affection of the people around him. Barring a few long conversations on the bigger meaning of life, the book is action packed and throws the protagonist into several interesting situations, most of which are unique to Bombay. Whether his life in the slums or his forays into the different departments of the Bombay mafia, they keep us absorbed and turning the pages. And just when one thinks that Lin-baba couldn't find anything more interesting to be involved in, it throws him into the middle of the war in Afghanistan!

Though the description of his life in Bombay is romanticized (this is a work of fiction; not a tourist guide!) his love of the city and its people comes through clearly. It doesn't hurt that Gregory also writes wonderfully. His descriptions, whether of people(like Prabhaker and his smile), places(like Madame Zhou's palace), things(like the dhoti) or situations, are a delight to read and have the power of making them come alive in our imagination. There are so many places in this book where within a few pages I had laughed out aloud, shed a few tears and been horrified.

Shantaram is a wonderful read and marks Gregory as a bright new talent.
 
Its so sad.....
nice informative post.....
 
balaji,
thanxs for putting the post here.

avik,
thanxs
 
Looks like a very interesting read. Will add it to my to-read list(asusual!).
 
yes it is.do check it out
 
Both Maximum City and Shantaram are an absolute must for the real Mumbai lover!

Both books hit you hard, make laugh and cry, revolt and revere the city, but at the end of the day, you cannot help fall in love with it all over again...!
 
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